Important Tips Before You Go
- In the capital of Nairobi and Mombasa, avoid the shady neighborhoods in the city center, dubious groups of thieves and homeless people hang out there => to feel safe, simply take a taxi (uber / grab) and choose a place to sleep outside the city center.
- Do you have excess things at home that you want to get rid of and make someone else happy? Take it with you! Whether it’s old technology, clothes, pens, or notebooks, the locals are happy about everything you bring to them.
- Traveling in two saves you money, as there are not many hostels in Kenya and perhaps every room you find has a double bed – you pay for two even as a solo traveler.
- Pack some warmer clothes with you. In the Mediterranean, places like Masai Mara and Nairobi can get chilly overnight and in the morning (15 ° C) – you will feel it especially during the morning safari in an open jeep.
- Equip yourself with cash or withdraw money from ATMs in larger quantities. In addition to parks, most accommodations have to be paid in cash or by M-Pesa (a local method of payment via mobile phone, which unfortunately requires cash to top up the account)
- Use ATMs from Equity Bank and Ecobank, as they are free of local fees.
- Buy a SIM card from Safaricom and set up an M-Pesa account so you can pay for accommodation and book flights and trains. There is often no other option than M-Pesa.
- Once you have M-Pesa, book your train ticket for Nairobi to Mombasa, or vice versa.
General Information
To enter the country you need
- Negative PCR COVID not older than 96 hours
- Travelers Health Surveillance Form
- Electronic Visa – ready in a few minutes even during the weekend
Currency
- Kenyan Shilling (KES)
- 1 USD ~ 100 KES (current value is 110 KES for 1 USD, but most locals stick to a lower value of 100 => paying shillings pays off)
- 1 CZK ~ 5 KES
Transportation
- very cheap => if you are not a group of four, I do not recommend renting a car, use public transport instead
- matatu (minibus) – the cheapest choice for distant travel, prices within hundreds of shillings. If someone wants more than 1000 KES from you, it’s probably a scam. Always look for a matatu that is fully occupied, such a car leaves almost immediately. If there is still a Covid-19 crisis, be prepared for the crazy situations at the bus stop. People will be literally fighting for you to hop to their car. The prices are also about 100 KES higher, as some cars have a vacancy spot in the middle.
- motorbike taxi – ideal for short distances in the city, up to 3 km drive will cost you 50 KES
- tuk tuk – the cheapest short-distance choice on the east coast, prices similar to motorcycles
Accommodation
- Accommodation is cheap, with prices from 800 KES per night for two
- Even the cheapest rooms that you find online are not that bad. But if you are used to a certain standard, I recommend paying a little extra.
Food
The food is heavily influenced by Indian culture, unfortunately as a fruitarian, I won’t tell you much about local food in restaurants. From what I have seen and heard, prices in restaurants in tourist areas and Nairobi are quite high (pizza in Nairobi costs 650 KES).
What I’m an expert on … that’s fruit. I for sure recommend buying fruit as often as possible. You will find it on every corner, it is juicy, sweet, and cheap. If you ask, the local vendors will be happy to cut it for you, so you can enjoy it right at the stall. For clarity, I enclose prices from local markets. Beware in some areas the prices are honestly higher, but in others, it is higher just because of your white skin, so don’t be afraid to bargain.
- mango – in season 15-30 KES per piece (depends on type and size)
- papaya – 80 KES per piece (approx. 1.5 kg)
- pineapple – 50 KES for small, 80 KES for medium and 100 KES for large
- watermelon – up to 3 kg 100 KES, 3-5 kg 150 KES, 5-7 kg 200 KES
- bananas – 5-10 KES per piece
Day 0 – Nairobi
If you did not take any money with you, make the first stop at the ATM. Ask for Equity Bank or Ecobank where there are no local fees. When you have the money, get a SIM card from Safaricom. First, you have to buy a SIM card, activate it, and then activate the M-Pesa account at a place marked with an M-Pesa sign, so that you can use the local method of payment via mobile phone. At the exit from the airport, there should be a regular bus to the city (80 KES), but when I was there, there was nothing to go to and so I ordered a taxi – about 500 KES to the center.
If it is after nine in the morning, I recommend you spend a night in Nairobi. Avoid cheap accommodation right in the center, which attracts mainly due to its close proximity to the matatu stop, from which you will depart the next morning. I recommend accommodation in Mvuli Suites. The rooms are wonderful and you pay $ 20 per night for two. The surroundings of the hotel seemed very nice and safe to me. Besides, you have a beautiful and large market Njoro’s Fruits and Vegetable Hub nearby. I certainly recommend visiting this market and walking through it. Some stalls have price tags for the goods, so you get an overview of local prices and no one will deceive you right away.
Day 1 – 3 – Masai Mara
Masai Mara is an undisputed place to visit if you are planning a trip to Kenya. It is one of the best parks not only in Kenya but around the world. It’s a place where you can meet a big five without having to be a millionaire to afford a trip there. The most popular time of visit is between June and November when you can see the migration of animals between Kenya and Tanzania, but I visited the park outside this period and it was worth it.
Accommodation
I highly recommend accommodation at Mara Explorers Camp & Backpackers for $15 (1,500 KES) per night. The camp itself is isolated from any civilization. It is surrounded by a fence and even though it is 2 km from the gate to the park, elephants, giraffes, and other animals can be seen or at least heard around the camp. The camp will arrange both an all-day safari (game drive) and a great three-course meal on request ($10 per meal). If you want to save money and cook by yourself there is a camp kitchen. In this case, bring the necessary groceries – the last supermarket is in Narok. Near the camp, there are only small stalls with common goods.
Transport to the campsite near Masai Mara
Depart before 9 am from the office in the center of Nairobi Narok Line Booking Office by minibus (matatu) to the city of Narok (approx. 3 hours, 600 KES). In Narok, you can get some food and possibly buy all the necessary groceries at the local market or at the Naivas supermarket, which is directly opposite the Narok Bus Station. From this stop, take a shared taxi to the campsite (1.5 hours, 500 KES).
Safari
All-day safari – game drive in a land cruiser ($80 for park entry and $120 for both one or two people). I planned to go on a one-day safari in Mara and move to another destination the next day. However, I met another traveler here. He was completely excited about the first day of the safari and told me that the next day he is going again. His enthusiasm motivated me so much that I changed my original plans.
Day 1 – Safari in the Masai Mara
The first day of the safari was like a dream. I saw as many animals as in the Prague Zoo, but the feeling of seeing animals in their natural environment, without cages and fences, was priceless. The only question that came to my mind during the day was, “Is it worth going to the same place the next day again?”
On the first day, we saw the following animals: topi, zebra, lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, giraffe, African wild dog, Thomson’s gazelle, Grant’s gazelle, Abdim’s stork, warthog, hippo, crocodile, ostrich, wildebeest, guineafowl, and francolin.
Day 2 – Safari in the Masai Mara
The next day was just rest. The first day I saw all the big five except the cheetah and the rhinos. Because of that my guide and I said we would take it slow today and focus only on these two animals. I would never expect that the second day could surpass the magnificent first day, but in the end, it happened. I had the whole car with a guide just for myself. There was no place to hurry and thanks to that we saw unreal things. A group of cheetahs was just at my fingertips. Elephant cubs chase around our car. A huge herd of zebras was walking a few meters from our car. I was so close to a group of lions that I heard them breathing. After this day, it was clear to me that I had just had the greatest adventure and experience of my life.
The second day we saw: African fish eagle, waterbuck, cheetah, impala, gray crowned crane, kirk’s dik-dik, hamerkop, White-backed vulture, Grey-headed kingfisher, banded mongoose, dwarf mongoose silverback jackal, eland, superb starling, vulturine guineafowl, secretarybird, spotted hyena, Yellow-billed stork, Red-throated francolin.
Budget summary for Masai Mara
- Accommodation – $15 per night (bed wide enough for two, but short for people over 180 cm)
- Meals – $10 per meal or cook your own meal (it is possible to order a purchase from Narok on the spot for an additional 100-200 KES for taxi drivers)
- Safari – $60 per person ($ 120 if you are alone) + $ 80 for all-day entry to the park
- Transport – from Nairobi to Masai Mara = 600 KES + 500 KES = 1100 KES
- Total for 2 people
- accommodation 3 nights = $45
- food 3 days, 2 people, 3 meals a day = $180
- two-day safari = $400
- transport to the camp = $20
- Total: $466 without food, or $646 with food (I spent on food / fruit for 3 days about 2500 KES)
Day 4 & 5 – Naivasha (optional)
A visit to the Masai Mara Park will be difficult to overcome. Any further safari visit will be more of a disappointment than a new experience. Therefore, consider another safari only if you want to see animals that you have not seen before or animals living in another environment.
Transport to Naivasha
Transportation is easy. Take a taxi back to Narok (500 KES), from there matatu directly to Naivasha (600 KES), or Nakuru (700 – 800 KES, 2-3 hours drive). Possible transfer from Naivasha to Nakuru (300 KES, 1.5 – 2.5 h depending on traffic).
Lake Nakuru – is it worth visiting?
If you haven’t seen a rhino in Mara, I definitely recommend heading to Lake Nakuru, where you will see at least a white rhino. Along the way, you will drive through Lake Naivasha, so it is worth considering a stop for at least one day. Lake Naivasha offers three options for a day trip. A trip to Lake Naivasha itself, Hells Gate National Park, or Longonot National Park.
What can you do at Lake Naivasha?
Naivasha is ideal for diversifying safaris. You get the unique opportunity to be in contact with animals without a car as there are no dangerous predators. If you go to the lake, you will see the amazing scenery of the lake, which you will enjoy while sailing on a smaller boat (about 3500 KES per boat for 7 people). Hells Gate National Park is suitable for cycling enthusiasts, as the park can also be explored by bike. For hiking enthusiasts, there is a trip to the extinct volcano of Mount Longonot.
I will describe Hells Gate National Park here, as I have not visited the other two places, not counting a visit to the lake on the way back from the park, which was free and worth it – I saw both the lake and the freely moving giraffes.
A half-day trip to Hells Gate National Park
You can get to the park either by taxi or try to catch a motorbike driver. This way, I arranged with a motorbike boy pickup at 8 am for a great price of 375 KES, which he offered me, a day in advance. Let yourself be taken to the park gate (about 30 minutes drive from Naivasha). There is a $20 entrance fee, and it is also possible to rent a bike for the whole day for $5. I surely recommend talking to a gentleman who rents bicycles. He is an entertaining guy who, in addition to conjuring a smile on your face, will tell you information about the park as well as other interesting things about Kenya.
Before you leave, check the brakes on your bike in particular. Most of the bikes are poorly adjusted and brake either all the time or not at all. If you go on a longer circuit (about 30 km) in the park (from Fisher’s Tower to the left), you can wander around just like me (marked in yellow on the map). And after you reach the top of the hill, a rough descent awaits you (marked in red on the map). I recommend this circuit only for lovers of adventure and downhill.
The way down is steep, rocky, and even decent brakes may not be enough for you to slow down. More than once, you will find yourself in a situation where you will feel like jumping off the bike like a tiger for its prey at high speed at any moment. Don’t worry, if you decide to go right (straight) from Fisher’s Tower, you will only find a straight road back and forth that everyone can finish (approx. 20 km – see map). Monkeys, antelopes, zebras, giraffes, warthogs, and buffaloes await you in the park.
Transport to Lake Nakuru
If you just decide to take a trip to Hells Gate Park, you will have plenty of time in the afternoon to move straight to Lake Nakuru. Go back to the bus stop, where you got off the day before, and here someone will guide you to Lake Nakuru (be aware they will want 100 KES extra for that). If you will not get stuck in a traffic jam, you will be in Nakuru within an hour and a half, and the matatu will cost you 300 KES.
Budget summary for Naivasha
Budget for Hells Gate – for Lake Naivasha and Longonot Park, the price is similar, except for the price per boat.
- I’ll leave the accommodation to you, I slept at Naiva Milli Guest House for only 800 KES per night (a very modest room with a double bed)
- Hells Gate – $5 bike rental and $25 for all-day entry to the park
- Transport – taxi to Narok 500 KES, then matatu to Naivasha 500-600 KES, motorbike to the park and back 800 KES and matatu to Nakuru 300 KES
- Total for 2 people = $96
Day 6 & 7 – Lake Nakuru
The lake, known for its former abundance of birds, chiefly flamingos, is slowly flooding. That disrupts the park’s entire ecosystem. The flamingos are slowly leaving the park as they have nothing to eat there. Most of the paths in the park are flooded or cut off. Only the eastern and southern parts of the park remain accessible. I’m sure the park used to be amazing, but even today it still has a lot to offer.
During the six-hour drive in the park (previously only three hours were enough, but due to the flooded north gate you have to go around the whole park) you can see pelicans, cormorants, flamingos, rhinos, zebras, giraffes, baboons, and more. By far the greatest experience in the park was when watching birds that occupied the last possible place at the lake. This and the observation of the white rhinos complemented my great experience of Mara – the big five was completed.
Consider renting your own car
Unlike the Masai Mara, I would consider renting my car here. You can only move in the park on market paths, of which there are not many left after the lake level has risen. There is one main road around the lake and another that leads back over the hill. There aren’t that many dangerous animals here, apart from buffaloes and very rare black rhinos, you have nothing to fear here. I had two contacts for the guides, one from Sleepway Cottages and the second I got before in Nairobi (Gipson 0714419141). In the end, I decided to go with Gipson, which offered a better car – a jeep with an open roof.
Back to Nairobi
After the safari, relax and take it slowly towards the seaside. Matatu back to Nairobi will cost you 700 KES, and when everything goes, you will be there in three hours. I recommend the same accommodation in Nairobi – Mvuli Suites. Tell the matatu driver your destination and he will stop as close to your accommodation as possible so you can comfortably walk the rest of the way. If you fly to the seaside by plane, you can choose accommodation near the airport.
Budget summary for Lake Nakuru
- I’ll leave the accommodation to you, I slept in Sleepway Cottages for 1200 KES per night (room decent, but the bathroom and especially the toilet was horrific) and $20 for Mvuli Suites
- Safari – 10,000 KES per car and with a guide + 35 USD for all-day entry to the park
- Matatu from Nakuru to Nairobi – 700 KES
- Total for 2 people = 216 USD
Day 8 – 11 – Watamu
After one week on safari, it is time to enjoy the seaside as well. The cheapest and most convenient way from Nairobi to the coast is by train (1000 KES, 5 hours drive to Mombasa). However, the train can only be booked online using M-Pesa. I was unlucky, and the train was sold out a few days in advance due to the national holiday. I decided to make even more comfortable and faster transportation – flight to Malindi (6,950 KES, 1 hour). If you decide to take a flight, order a taxi (500 KES), which will take you directly to the airport. Beware, motorcycles cannot enter the airport area. I was considering flying to Lamu for the same price, but due to lack of time, I decided to skip it.
Amazing local market in Malindi
I spent one day in Malindi, and I must say that if you are not a big fan of farmers’ markets where you can buy amazing, fresh and cheap fruits and vegetables, then I recommend skipping Malindi and head straight from the airport to Watamu.
How to get from Malindi to Watamu
There is a matatu going from Malindi to Watamu now and then, just stand on the road and wait for one to pass. For only 50 KES it will take you to Gede, or with a little luck, it will go directly to Watamu for 100 KES.
Watamu – a place inspired by Italian culture
Watamu is a small town inspired by Italian culture. This place offers some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Amazing bays with crystal clear sea, and fine sand. The depth of the water was ridiculous at low tide, but in the normal state, or at high tide it feels like a swimming pool. The sea is calm, beautifully warm, and not too deep, so ideal for worse swimmers or smaller kids. The place is dependent on tourism, on the way to the beach you will find typical shops with souvenirs, clothes or fresh fruit. On the beach, you will be offered fresh coconut for 50 – 100 KES (local / tourist price).
Available activities
The offer of activities is similar to both Watamu and Diani Beach. You can go dolphin watching. For the best price, I recommend finding the captain of the boat directly on the beach. I found one right next to one of the offices belonging to the marine reserve, which is located at the end of the bay when crossing to another beach.
The beach will be full of merchants who will try to offer you mountains, just to earn something to eat. Yes, you will save around 1000 KES if you avoid these intermediaries, but consider supporting more locals. Perhaps I remember correctly that a half-day trip for dolphins cost 1,500 KES + $15fee to enter the park. The full-day trip was 3000 KES + $15, here you will visit the island and the price includes barbecue seafood.
Another option is sailing on a local fishing boat (sailboat). You may not see anything but the sea, the beach, and the beautiful sunset/sunrise, but the experience is priceless. An hour of such sailing will cost you 2000 KES per person. Watamu is close to several other interesting places to consider, such as Gede Ruins Malindi … Snake Park, and Hells Kitchen.
Budget summary for Watamu
I’ll leave it to you here, many of us like chilling on the beach, others have to go on a trip every day.
- Accommodation – I slept in Peponi Watamu for 17 USD per night, I would like to point out a huge room with an outdoor terrace, where you can find a dining table and a bed. The place also has a pool.
- Transport – plane 6 950 KES, taxi 500 KES, matatu 100 KES
- Boat trips from $20 to $55 per person
- Massage – from 1000 to 2500 KES for 60/90 min depending on the type of massage
- Total = $258 (in case of air transport, together with a trip on a small fishing boat and without food).
Day 11 – 14 – Diani Beach
If you’ve fallen in love with Watamu and you don’t want to go anywhere else, you don’t have to. Other coastal places are beautiful also, but they offer basically the same thing you will find in Watamu. If you still want some change places such as Lamu, Kilifi, and Diani beach are worth considering. I opted for the most famous beach on the coast – Diani beach.
The main difference between Watamu and Diani beach is in the size of Diani beach. This beach is endless. Even the whole day is not enough to explore it fully. In Diani beach, you will find more tourists and there are also cheap hostels.
Transport to Diani beach
From the main road (Jacaranda Road) take the matatu to Gede (50 KES). At the road, wait for the next matatu, which will take you to Mombasa (350 – 400 KES, 2-3 hour drive). Matatu will take you to Buxton Market, where you take the tuk tuk to the Likoni Ferry (200 KES). The ferry will take you to the next shore for free. Jump to another matatu to Diani beach – Ukunda (100 KES, 1 h drive). Matatu will stop in the center, where you can buy all necessary ingredients and then take the tuk tuk directly to the accommodation (150 – 300 KES).
Accommodation in a local paradise
For those who prefer accommodation which is more private and connected with nature, I absolutely recommend Bahati Diani House Glamping (attention the location in Google maps does not fit, to find accommodation, follow the signs on the street, or follow my link here).
Finding this place was cherry on top of already extraordinary trip in Kenya. I found here my dream home which I amaginated in my visions. The owner of the place is a great person. He is an amazing entertainer who is always laughing and at the same time accommodating you in everything. Youseph built this accommodation next to his native village. Your neighbors are just his family and unspoiled nature. You live here in handmade shacks. Some of the huts have an open-roof bathroom, where local banana trees are the only cover over your head. Instead of garden you have a food forest here – most of the things that grow here have fruits that you can eat. Youseph built a small farm here. In addition to fruits and vegetables, it also has a variety of cattle, as well as many dogs, cats and donkeys. If you love animals and nature this place is for you.
Amazing and always fresh food right from the garden
No matter what diet you follow, Youseph will always prepare the food you wish for. You usually eat things directly from the garden, freshly caught fish from the sea, or possibly groceries bought at the fresh market. In addition to visiting the local village, where the rest of the family lives, the family meets every day at the campsite, so you have a unique opportunity to get closer to the locals and find out how they live.
The only downside to the place is its distance from the beach. It is over 4 km to the beach. So if you want to go to the beach, someone has to give you a lift, or you can borrow a local bike.
Budget summary for Diani Beach
- Accommodation – Bahati Diani House Glamping $36 per night for two with breakfast included
- Food – right at the place of accommodation depends on your wishes, I got an amazing fruit picked directly from a tree, or I drove to the city market for something extra
- Transport – matatu from Watamu to Mombasa 400 KES, then from Mombasa to Ukunda 300 KES and finally tuk-tuk directly to the accommodation 150 KES
- Total for 2 people ~ $126 + food
Day 14 – Way Home
If you missed the train before, now is the time to try this modern connection between the two capitals. You already know the way to Mombasa, take the tuk-tuk to Ukunda. Here you will board a matatu that will take you to the ferry. After transport by ferry, take a tuk-tuk or taxi depending on your destination. If you are going directly to the train station, take a taxi, as tuk-tuk will not let you go to the station.
Before going to the train station, I stopped at the huge Kongowea Market. Here you can buy the missing souvenirs. There is also a large fruit and vegetable market (wholesale), which offers fair prices (the same prices for tourists and locals). If you already have everything, head to the Mombasa SGR Terminus train station. Be aware, you have to book your ticket online in advance, and you should be at the station at least an hour in advance! I arrived a few minutes later, and in the end, nothing has happened. Thorough inspections await you here. In addition to Covid, dogs also check for possible drugs, so be careful, especially if you have sniffed the local Rastafari culture.
The train leaves every day at 15:00, and you can expect it to arrive at 20:00. The train is as accurate as a watch. You can count on the fact that there will be no delays. Even if you have a flight home around midnight, you should be able to get to your gate safely and in time. I flew at midnight myself and had almost two hours of free time at the airport.
Summary
So here you have it, two weeks in a beautiful country called Kenya. A lot of wild animals, natural living people, and also great poverty await you here. Overall, a trip to Kenya and other African countries is a stunning adventure that will hugely enrich you. Get ready for some of the best safaris and some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. I don’t know why Kenya is known mainly for its safaris and not for its beaches, but judge for yourself after the trip.
And how much will this backpacking trip cost you? If we add up the price for all safaris, transport, accommodation, and keep a reserve for food, expect that for two you need around $1,500 + price for a ticket and a possible PCR test. The price for two is more advantageous than for one, as you will save both for accommodation and safaris, or tuk-tuk, but for comparison, these two weeks cost me $830. Remember that sometimes you donate some money to the locals or support their local business. It is certainly not possible to travel to a country like Kenya without any contributions. The whole experience of the country’s poverty is very challenging even when you try to help.